Tyres perform several important functions and are the
only part of your vehicle that comes in contact with the road. On average, the
part of a tyre in contact with the road is the size of a postcard.
The entire weight of your vehicle and its contents is
are supported by the tyre and air inside the tyre.
The Law
It's against the law to have:
Car tyres with tread worn to below 1.6mm;
A mix of radial and cross ply tyres;
Over or under-inflated tyres;
Tyres with cuts, lumps, bulges or tears;
The wrong sort of tyre fitted to a vehicle or trailer.
Safety Standards
All new tyres must meet European standards for
load/speed performance, shown by an 'E' or 'e' mark on the sidewall.
All retread tyres supplied in the UK must comply with the British Standard
AU144e, and be marked with this number. This proves they have been thoroughly
tested and meet the same performance standards as new tyres.
Only buy second-hand tyres if they are marked 'part-worn' next to the E or BS
mark, to show they have been properly checked for faults.
Checking Tread Depth
Most tyres have tread wear indicators, usually six or
more small ribs across the bottom of the main tread grooves. When the tread
surface is level with these ribs, the tyre needs to be replaced.
The Effect of Tread Depth on Tyre Performance
Current tread depth legislation requires that car tyres
must have a minimum of 1.6mm of tread in a continuous band throughout the
central ¾ of the tread width and over the whole circumference of the tyre.
The accepted normal tread depth when new is 9mm. Many
tyre manufacturers state that they design tyres to function as well at 1.6mm as
they do at 9mm. This is despite industry testing having shown that when a tyre
reaches around 3.5mm in tread depth, the level of performance in the wet, in
particular, starts to deteriorate, as does its dry handling characteristics.
Europe-wide, the recommended point for change is 3mm. So
at what depth do ministerial cars in the UK have their tyres changed ? you
guessed it, 3mm. Why then the current legal limit of 1.6mm?
There are several arguments against the change, some of
which you may question. One is that the sudden change from 1.6mm to 3mm would
have a serious impact on the pockets of hundreds of thousands of motorists who
are already struggling to keep their cars on the road.
Another is that it would require changing all the tyre
moulds in use to increase the tyre wear indicator depth to 3mm. And of course
Europe plays a part, as there would not be universal implementation of 3mm tread
depth, requiring double standards in production and possibly in policing. Until
any legislation is in place you can make up your own mind, scrape by on 1.6mm,
or be safe on 3mm. The choice is yours.
Lorry and Truck tyres currently have a 1mm legal minimum
tread depth in the UK which many are trying to drive up to 1.6mm - for exactly
the same reasons as they want to see 3mm for car tyres.
You may wonder why the normal new tread depth is
generally around 9mm. This is to do with the slip, ie distortion in a tyre
block, and its level of hysteresis. If you take an eraser and holding it
vertically, draw it across a desk, you will see that it distorts before it loses
grip - that is what we call "slip". If you increase or decrease the length of
rubber you are flexing, the slip increases or decreases. It becomes obvious that
too much slip would make a vehicle unstable. Remember that the compound is a
compromise too and the ratio of slip to tread block and the compound used is all
finely tuned. The industry norm for car, van and SUV treads is 9mm.
The Impact of Tread Depth on Tyre Safety
The braking and grip performance of tyres in wet weather
deteriorates considerably once the tread depth reduces below 3mm. This is
because the main function of the tread pattern of a tyre is to evacuate water.
As the tread depth decreases it gradually loses the ability to evacuate all
water from the road surface under the tyre and the car will eventually
aquaplane.
Many tyre tests have shown that the wet braking
distances of a new tyre compared with a tyre with only 1.6mm of tread left on it
are huge and can be the difference between life and death. You need good tyres
to drive safely. They affect the steering, braking and acceleration of your
vehicle.
Tyre Wear Visual Check
Check for obvious signs of wear
Checking Tyre Pressures
Look in your handbook or consult your garage or tyre
dealer for the recommended pressures for your vehicle.
Tyres can lose 1 psi (pounds per square inch) per month under normal
conditions Additionally tyres can lose one psi for every 5% C temperature drop.
You should check the pressure at least every two weeks, and only when the
tyres are cold. Even a short trip to the local garage will warm up the tyre and
raise the pressure.
Driving on under inflated tyres is almost certain to cause serious damage,
always inflate tyres to the suggested pressure.
Maintaining the correct pressure is the easiest, yet most important thing you
can do to get the best performance, economy and safety from your tyres.
Lower pressure increases heat; excessive heat results in tyre damage.
Under inflation of tyres can cause them to experience uneven or rapid tread
wear, as well as lead to an increase in fuel consumption. In addition, under
inflation reduces your vehicles braking and handling capabilities, and can
ultimately lead to serious tyre failure.
Under inflation can create an overload on tyres resulting in tyre damage.
Different driving conditions require different pressures. For example, a
higher pressure is usually recommended for high speed driving or when carrying
or towing a heavier than normal load. Seek advice on what is best for you and
your car.
Where possible, carry your own tyre pressure gauge.
Sealing valve caps must always be used, the best being the metal type.
Avoid using 'sealants' or other liquid preparations to prevent deflation.
These may cause the valve to stick open slightly, causing pressure loss and
indirectly causing corrosion of steel belts.
Don’t forget to inspect the spare tyre
Damaged Tyres
Every week inspect tread and sidewalls for cuts and
abrasions, bulges, unusual wear and road damage.
If the tyre receives a severe impact, ask your tyre retailer to check for
internal damage. Do not repair cuts in sidewalls of radial ply tyres.
Take action immediately to rectify any unusual sounds or vibrations. Tyre
balance and vehicle wheel alignment should be checked regularly, (ie every
10,000km), especially if your tyres are subjected to rough roads or aggressive
driving.
Tyre Rotation
Regular rotation of tyres is a proven method for
promoting even wear and therefore extending tread life. If uneven wear has
occurred, this may be due to worn suspension components, vehicle misalignment or
incorrect tyre balance. These concerns cannot be corrected by simply rotating
the tyres. Your local tyre retailer should correct these problems.
Front to back same side rotation is acceptable when
tyres are wearing unevenly. If the spare is included in the rotation it should
be exchanged with the tyre allocated to the right hand rear position
For maximum mileage rotate your tyres every 5000 to
10000km and follow the correct rotation patterns.
Interpreting the Numbers on Your Tyre
This section helps you to understand and recognise the
meaning of the size markings on the side wall of a tyre.
Tyre Width
Width of the tyre measured in millimetres from sidewall
to sidewall. The tyre in the diagram above is 205 millimetres wide
Aspect ratio
Aspect ratio is the ratio of a tyre's width to its
height. A 65 series tyre, therefore, is a tyre whose height is equal to 65% of
its width. Manufacturers make tyres with different aspect ratios to perform
different functions. The most common are as follows.
75 and 70 Series Popular on many small and medium cars where they provide good ride, comfort
and durability.
65 Series Tyres with 65 series aspect ratios are popular fitment on many medium and
large family cars. Improvements in handling while retaining good ride are key
performance strengths of this type of tyre.
60 series Further improves handling, particularly steering response as side wall
height is reduced. They are a popular fit on sports touring vehicles.
55, 50, 45 Series and below Very low aspect ratio tyres developed for the new range of higher
performance vehicles where ultimate grip during braking, steering and traction
are the priorities.
Construction
This tells you how the tyre was put together. The "R"
stands for radial, which means that the the ply or ply cords are alligned at 90
degrees to the circumference. These cords are layers of fabric that make up the
body of the tyre, and run radially across the tyre from bead to bead. A "B"
indicates the tyre is of bias construction, meaning that the body ply cords run
diagonally across the tyre from bead to bead, with the ply layers alternating in
direction to reinforce one another.
While radials improve performance the fact is that they
are not very good for bad roads and overloading. The suspension of a vehicle
has, also, to be modified to accept radials. Radials offer much better grip of
the road especially on surfaces which offer poor wheel traction like wet or
slippery roads.
Rim Diameter
The "15" above indicates the rim diameter in inches. It
is the diameter of the tyre bead seat ledge in the rim. Most tyres are built to
inch standards for rim diameters. However, some tyres are built to millimetric
rim dimensions. Always match the tyre's rim diameter to the wheel rim diameter.
This is important for safety.
NOTE: A millimetric rim has a different shape than an inch rim; they are not
interchangeable.
Tyre ‘Load’ and ‘Speed’ Markings
With few exceptions, tyres new or retreaded are required
by law to carry indications of the tyre’s load carrying and speed capabilities.
These are moulded on the sidewall as a service description comprising a Load
Index (e.g.‘94’ in table 1) for load carrying capacity and a Speed Symbol (e.g.
‘H’ in table 2)for speed capability. It is strongly recommended to always fit
tyres that have a speed capability and load index at least equal to or higher
than those originally specified by the vehicle manufacturer.
Table 1 - Load Indices and Related Maximum Loads
Load Index
Load KG
Load Index
Load KG
Load Index
Load KG
Load Index
Load KG
Load Index
Load KG
50
190
65
290
80
450
95
690
110
1060
51
195
66
300
81
462
96
710
111
1090
52
200
67
307
82
475
97
730
112
1120
53
206
68
315
83
487
98
750
113
1150
54
212
69
325
84
500
99
775
114
1180
55
218
70
335
85
515
100
800
115
1215
56
224
71
345
86
530
101
825
116
1250
57
230
72
355
87
545
102
850
117
1285
58
236
73
365
88
560
103
875
118
1320
59
243
74
375
89
580
104
900
119
1360
60
250
75
387
90
600
105
925
120
1400
61
257
76
400
91
615
106
950
121
1450
62
265
77
412
92
630
107
975
122
1500
63
272
78
425
93
650
108
1000
123
1550
64
280
79
437
94
670
109
1030
124
1600
Table 2 - Tyre Speed Symbol Marking
Speed Symbol
Maximum vehicle speed for which tyre is suitable
M
81 mph
130 km/h
P
93 mph
150 km/h
Q
99 mph
160 km/h
R
106 mph
170 km/h
S
112 mph
180 km/h
T
118 mph
190 km/h
H
130 mph
210 km/h
V
150 mph
240 km/h
W
169 mph
270 km/h
Y
187 mph
300 km/h
ZR
Over 150mph
Over 240km/h
Tyre Age
Tyres carry a three digit age code on the sidewall
indicating the month and year of manufacture. For example 129 means the tyre was
manufactured in December 1999.
Tread Patterns and Profiles
Most people don't realise it but tyres are fashion
accessories. When a car is designed, an integral element in the designing of a
car is to include the tyre width, profile, diameter and pattern as a core factor
in the design.
Whilst the tyre will always be required to do its job,
of providing grip, traction, adhesion and being an element of the car's
suspension, it nowadays also has to look good. It has to look good on the car
and in the showroom. That makes the car tyre a fashion item.
It is impossible to tell from looking at one tyre tread
whether it works better than another tyre of a similar style. It used to be
pretty simple, a question of bars and lugs, and blocks. Now we have a different
approach to tyres and how they work, and that means that things can get very
confusing for the tyre buyer.
Very early on, it was realised that tyres worked better
if they had a tread pattern. Designs were arbitrary and Dunlop actually produced
a tread pattern that left an imprint of the brand name Dunlop as it ran over
soft surfaces.
There is a history of tread design that can be followed
through the years. But essentially, there was the bar or lug type tread with
solid lugs across the tyre tread traction. Then there was the circumferential
channel pattern that gave lateral grip. A combination of the two basic patterns
led to the block type tread pattern that survives in many tyre patterns today.
Interestingly, all three early type patterns are still
available for specific uses today. However, modern motoring's focus has changed
slightly, and whilst grip and traction are still core values, today we are more
focussed on wet and dry handling and braking ability.
The best tyre on dry, level road surfaces is a slick.
However, road surfaces are rarely dry, and the roads that we drive on every day
- even the smoothest of them, are a far cry from racetrack surfaces, and as a
consequence the road tyre needs to be harder wearing, so it has a firmer
compound (generally), it has to have grip and traction, and it also needs to
resist aquaplaning.
The tread on a modern car tyre is considered to be a
water pump, designed to express water from between the contact patch and the
road surface. How it manages to do that is the subject of many millions of
pounds of investment for each of the leading tyre manufacturers.
For the tyre buyer, generally speaking, the greater the
number of channels in your tyre's tread the greater its ability to pump water
away. However, the design of those channels may make the tyre more or less
efficient. A wide tyre may require a different approach to water dispersal than
a narrow tyre. So that trendy looking tread you find on a Porsche tyre, may not
be suitable on a narrow tyre fitted to the family saloon - and vice versa.
A recent trend has been the development of high
performance tyres with circumferential grooves and tread bands that offer
different characteristics across the tread of a tyre - these tend to be
asymmetric and directional. Another trend is for the "single tread" where the
tread pattern is such that the "land" area of the tyre never breaks contact with
the road and the "sea" area (the troughs) channel water away from under the
tyre. Both these tyre patterns are claimed to be quieter than block type tread
patterns.
Tyre Noise
Tyre noise is a big issue nowadays. Cars have become so
quiet that often the loudest bypass noise comes from the induction system and
the tyres. Tyre pattern can make a great deal of impact on the noise a tyre
makes.
The noise actually comes from the leading edge of the
tyre block making contact with the road surface, and the trailing edge snapping
back as it breaks contact with the road. So, the more blocky a tyre is, the
noisier it will be: Perhaps something to consider if road noise is intrusive in
your car.
Winter tyres are always going to be louder than their
all season counterparts because they are blockier and have many more sipes (thin
slices in the tread block) to give better grip and pump more water away.
Noise is a comfort issue and comfort is a big issue for
vehicle manufacturers and tyre makers. The tyre is an integral part of your
vehicle's suspension. It absorbs the first and all minor impacts with variations
in the road surface. It softens the ride and suspension settings at the point of
vehicle design and manufacture take into account the Original Equipment (OE)
tyre design.
So, when replacing your car's tyres it is always a good
idea to buy, at least with the first replacement, the same tyre as is fitted OE.
By the time your car needs its second or third change of tyres the original
specification of the suspension will have been diminished by wear and tear and
it becomes feasible to fit non-OE tyres without any real impact on the car's
feel since it will rarely feel like new by that stage anyway.
ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
Comfort Profile
Comfort is also impacted by profile. Now this is where
we are all becoming fashion victims. Cars are coming with ever larger wheels and
lower profile tyres. The technical reason is that the larger wheels allow the
manufacturers to fit larger brakes, and therefore make the braking of the car
more efficient.
In utilising larger wheels the car requires thinner,
lower profile tyres to stay within the style and design characteristics of the
vehicle, and also within the ability of the tyre industry to produce suitable
tyres, and the aftermarket to deal with them. A vehicle that leaves the factory
with 18 inch rims and 20 profile tyres will have had its suspension designed to
deal with the harsher ride created by the low profile tyres.
However, if a car comes with 70 series on a 15 inch rim
and the owner changes to 18 inch and 20 profile (as an example), he will
definitely have a harsher riding car as the lower profile tyre has a stiffer,
less supple sidewall and will absorb far less of the surface undulations than
the car fitted with the 70 profile.
So, unless you drive on excellent road surfaces for most
of the time the low profile tyre is potentially harsher. If you fit low profiles
to a car not designed for them, you will gain in looks (perhaps) but suffer in
the ride. Your handling on smooth roads will improve, but on poor roads and
potholed surfaces your handling will only be of use to you as you dodge the rim
smashing voids in the asphalt.
Directional and Asymmetric Patterned Tyres
Some tyres have patterns where their direction of
rotation is important to achieve their full performance. These are known as
‘Directional’ pattern tyres and the direction of rotation is marked on the
tyre’s sidewall. Additionally some tyres have patterns which are different on
the inner half of the tread than compared to the outer half. These tyres, known
as ‘Asymmetric’, have their sidewalls marked ‘Outside’ and/or ‘Inside’ or
similar wording.It is important with both these tyre types to observe the
fitting markings on the tyre sidewall.
Runflat Tyres (RFT)
RFT’s represent the latest in a long line of safety
initiatives being made available today. Safety has become something of a catch
cry for a society which has become less accepting of the trauma associated with
all manner of accidents. The value of developing and adopting new technologies
to keep us safe is well recognised. Furthermore, consumers have demonstrated a
willingness to pay a premium for safety features they understand. Just as
anti-lock brake systems, traction control, stability control and air bags have
trickled down from upper models to base models, the very same is expected of RFT.
RFT’s also provides more comfort and convenience for the
motorist. Within the specified speed and distance limits (typically 80 km/h for
up to 80 km), the driver can either complete their journey or travel to the next
qualified service station without the worry of changing a flat tyre. This means
vehicle occupants can continue travelling to important meetings or events even
when tyres are totally deflated.
I confirm I have read the factsheet 'Tyre Safety – Know
Your Tyres'.
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